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Wanted to know how shops are handling all the different types, weights, and specs on the current oils?

 

The problem I have is that we follow what the manufacture recommends (pain sometimes) but I feel it is the right thing to do. This becomes and issue when for the first few services the customer was bringing to the Dealer, so they can get the proper care. Come to find out they were using whatever was the cheapest. I have had a 2012 Acura and a 2013 Subaru which both call for very specific oil, which both cars were getting straight up conventional oil. The problem becomes now trying to explain on the third or fourth service why it’s so expensive compared to what the dealer was charging. (They should know what the car takes) I have called a few in our area, and have been told we use whatever we have in bulk! WHATS THE DEAL WITH THAT

Wanted to know how shops are handling all the different types, weights, and specs on the current oils?

 

 

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I have run into the same situation. I called the local Chevy dealer a few years ago to get Dexos oil for a customer's car. They didn't know what I was talking about even though GM was very specific in the oil specs/requirements for their cars. I have run into many new vehicles that spec 0W20 synthetic that dealers have been servicing with 5W20 conventional oil.

 

On a slightly different note, I've quoted a number of 30,000 mile services for Toyota and Honda vehicles that I was told I was very high on compared to the Dealer. I have found that the Dealers are quoting $160 - $180 for what amounts to an oil change (most likely with the wrong oil) and tire rotation, maybe an air filter. The cabin air is additional. Any additional services are extra. Anybody else seeing this?

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On my end, i've undergone a little bit of training at an oil facility in Melbourne, Victoria, Australia.

 

For starters: to be US friendly:
- 1 kilometre = 0.621371 miles. 120,000 kms = 74,564 mi | 60,000 kms = 37,282 mi

- Left = Wrong side. :lol: kidding :)

 

 

Weights

1) Always refer to the vehicle manual to determine the recommended oil when it's new. e.g. 0w20 or alternatives 5w20 or 0w30.

2) Discover kilometers (sorry Americans; which is everyone :) ) since a brand new engine e.g. Travelled 110,000kms

2a) Every 60,000kilometres, go UP an oil grade e.g. 0w20 to 0w30 to 0w40 and onwards.

2b) In this example, 110,000kms = 0w30. When it hits 120,000km, recommend 0w40 as a starter.

3) Disclaimer: Some cars are in even better condition and the 60,000km marker is a guideline. It could be more.

 

Specifications

1) Always refer to the vehicle manual to determine the recommended/required specification.

1a) Regardless of age, it always stays the same. e.g. An Audi A4 requires VW 502 and VW 505

2) Check Oil for the matching specifications. If it's not shown, i'ld be a little wary about using it in the vehicle.

2a) Most people would say it's alright. Its not my car so if anything goes wrong, the business supplying the oil can be liable.

3) In the case of API, any rating after will be A-ok if nothing else more specific is specified. like a SN used when the car specifies SJ.

 

Base Oils

We don't need to go to that level however it's useful to know the various types.

 

 

In my case, I service 2 brands, Volkswagen & Audi and use 2 brands of oils. Certain car models should only use certain oils within the 2 brands. My life is easy and customers are guaranteed oil that is top notch, good quality, compatible and recommended by the manufacturer. Doesn't get easier than that!

A little bit of research is required at the start but it's work worth its weight in gold.

Edited by Leonard Lee
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We carry 5w30 in bulk that meets SN rating, that gets used in generic older cars that specify 5w30 like s10 blazers and such. 2nd most common is semi synthetic 5w20 in quarts that meets the Ford spec. Most major brands do like Valvoline and Mobil. We carry Mobil 1 synthetic 0w20 for the Japanese cars. I used to stock dexos1 for the new gm's but now autozone 5w30 synthetic has the Dexos1 official stamp on the bottle so we use that. For the German cars we stock 5w40 Euro spec - it is "approved by" Mercedes, BMW, and VW. I get it from amazon, nobody local has it. For the European cars if the bottle does not have the exact wording as the manual specifies then I wouldn't use it. "Exceeds standards" means it's not approved. I'm sure it will work but we don't take a chance. Most euro cars have a 10-15k + mile drain interval so it seems pretty important to use the right stuff. We use the oe Mann fleece filters on the German cars too. Once again Amazon to the rescue. 6 or 7 filters covers all the common cars we see. That being said our oil changes cost as much as the dealer but it saves the customer an hour + drive. That's the drawback of being in a college town, we service the whole spectrum. No one size fits all oil anymore.

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I have most defiantly seen this before. My Mom in 2001 Bought a new mustang cobra (her mid life crisis) It had a very specific recommendation of a synthetic oil at a at the time extended oil change interval of 7500 miles. I was away at college and the dealer she bought it at offered a very reasonable cost of oil change, so i told her to just have it done their. After about 40k miles I returned and started servicing it my self and she questioned the high cost of doing it our self, at first I attributed it to their bulk qty costs but after a while I got to looking at the old receipts they were just putting conventional oil in it.

 

The Dealer does not always know best!!

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Leonard we also like to consult the owners manual. My issue ls when the customer has no idea what type of oil they were using. They always know what they paid, so you can tell when they are not using the correct oil for the car/truck. What do you do? Switch to the proper oil specs or guess at what was being put in!

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Leonard we also like to consult the owners manual. My issue ls when the customer has no idea what type of oil they were using. They always know what they paid, so you can tell when they are not using the correct oil for the car/truck. What do you do? Switch to the proper oil specs or guess at what was being put in!

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Quinn, i always refer to the worlds encyclopedia when in doubt or the factory oil specifications guide.

 

Customers that don't know what they are paying for should always get what their car needs unless they have an awesome reason why they want something else. I prescribe because i have the knowledge and because i want the best for the customer.

 

In terms of stock, i stock a certain weight of oil, eg 0w40 or 10w40. But if the vehicle requires a different viscosity, i will order it in from my supplier just for him/her.

 

We are the car doctors. Their interests should be our 1st priority. I wouldn't necessarily trust what was placed in before.

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