Auto Repair Shop Flooring Paint

[tirengolf]

Need a little info on my up coming building upgrade. Half of my shop floors are all concrete that has been on the ground since the late 50's, The other half has been down 15 years, as you could imagine it is very stained. Have any of you guys redone any of your floors with a epoxy paint. I would also take any suggestion's of not what to do. I am trying to upgrade our image . Our survey really indicate that it a issue that some customers are aware off. I know it is a repair shop, although this new age shopper like clean organized shops. It is just time to do all this. I am open to all suggestions. I think I am going to put wood in my waiting room and sales counter area. Just looking for any ideas. Thanks guys

[xrac]

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[PAPShop]

When we expanded into the entire building 4 years ago, we put epoxy down in the retail sales area. The building is very old (no one knows how old) and was previously used by the city street department for truck maintenance. Here are the notes from our experience.

 

1. Yes it is worth it. We used "Epoxy Coat" http://www.epoxy-coat.com

2. Prep is the most important step. The floors were really oily, and diesel spills. We bought muriatic acid to clean the floor from Ace hardware by the gallon.

3. Follow the instructions exactly. It took 2 people and we did little section at a time. Worked great.

4. Take your time and expect long hours when you do it. (We did it over Easter weekend, 4 hour sleep each night.)

5. Don't cheap out. Put it on thick and get the sealer if available. The areas where it is thick look the best and we did not get the sealer. There is discoloration from dirty mop water from not sealing it.

 

We will do each room in the shop over time; we have just under 8000 sq feet.

[ncautoshop]

Legacy industrial coatings is probably your best bet, and they'll likely suggest an oil block product. It will be expensive, but yes it's worth it. I used a sherwin williams product on top of rustoleum epoxy. Rexthane is what's typically what's used in extreme environments and man is it some tough (and expensive ) stuff. Ours has taken extreme temps, chemicals, drops, drags and every kind of abuse you could imagine and no issues yet. Wipe the oil right up!

http://www.legacyindustrial.net

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Edited September 23, 2015 by ncautoshop

[cshann19]

I have done both Home Depot brand and paid a pro. The HD brand held up admirably for 2 years then started to peel pretty good. I got a pro for my current floor. First was grind the concrete. This takes the place of the etching that the box stores recommend. Then it was vapor seal. Then epoxy. Then granite chips/flake. Then 2 more coats of epoxy then 3 coats of clear. It is over 50 mils thick. I can soak it in gasoline then drop a transmission on it and it doesn't budge, chip or stain.

 

All that said it cost me over 10,000 for 4000 sf.

 

Sorry, I looked for a pic on my phone but no luck.

 

It's worth paying for

[ATLAuto]

  On 9/25/2015 at 2:31 AM, cshann19 said:

I have done both Home Depot brand and paid a pro. The HD brand held up admirably for 2 years then started to peel pretty good. I got a pro for my current floor. First was grind the concrete. This takes the place of the etching that the box stores recommend. Then it was vapor seal. Then epoxy. Then granite chips/flake. Then 2 more coats of epoxy then 3 coats of clear. It is over 50 mils thick. I can soak it in gasoline then drop a transmission on it and it doesn't budge, chip or stain.

 

All that said it cost me over 10,000 for 4000 sf.

 

Sorry, I looked for a pic on my phone but no luck.

 

It's worth paying for

 

Agreed on all.

 

I did ours myself. 6600sf. Cost roughly $10k in materials alone.

 

Shop was built in 1940 and had been bare concrete ever since. I cleaned it with the following:

- Orange citrus cleaner, industrial strength

- Power washing

- Organic bacteria that eat oil

- Power washing again

- Power washing again

- Muriatic acid

- Power washing again

This worked good in 90% of the shop. No peeling or chipping after 13 months, except in one area where the grime would simply not come up.

 

I would probably have someone else do it after the hassle we went through. Grinding is probably the only real good option on an old floor.

[FROGFINDER]

Used epoxy from Sherwin Williams and it looks great. Customers comment how great!

[GeeZ]

Right now, we are putting up a 14,000 sq. ft. building with 11,000 of shop area. After looking around and was seriously looking at polyurea at about $11 sq ft., I was refered to these folks in the Houston area

and decided to use their process. They have done lots of floors around us. Best of all 85 cents per sq ft. Could be available elsewhere in the U.S.

 

http://www.concretecleaninginc.com/

 

This should happen in about 3 weeks.