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Race Deck Flooring


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Well, I've had a stall in my shop for about 6 months now lined with race deck flooring. Long story short, I would not recommend it for an automotive shop. It is awesome for a home garage, museum/car show setting, or something like that, but not for full blown automotive work.

 

Now for the details of why. First, it expands and contracts WAY too much. Anytime you run a fuel induction service, it will cause the flooring to raise up to 6" above the floor. I heard rumors from the tool guy that a shop with a service drive had issues with it raising up when the sun would shine on it just right.

 

I had an old LS400 with an ignition coil go bad and caused it to run so rich, the cats were glowing red. The flooring raised up enough to cause it to melt... Which brings me to my second point. It's plastic. This may seem obvious, but if your doing any sort of grinding on the floor, it will burn it. If you grind off a bolt, and it falls on the floor, it will melt it.

 

Third, and this may just be me being lazy, but it's not that easy to clean. AVOID yellow like the plague. Darker colors are your friend. I think white may even be easier to keep clean than yellow.

 

PROS:

As the promised, I had no issues with any chemical reactions. I intentionally left a puddle of brake cleaner on it over night to see if it cause any damage. It didn't. Neither did any other chemical or fluid. It is tough and can take a beating. Dropped many hammers on it from various heights, had engine and trans assemblies sitting on jackstands and it did no damage. Protects some things from being damaged when they fall, better than bare concrete or hard tile. It provides fair grip with covered in oil or brake fluid. Looks great to a customer when they peak out in your shop and see some fancy flooring with a pattern or design on it.

 

Conclusion:

Again, it would be great for a personal garage or showroom. But to be pulling transmissions and doing brake jobs, etc, everyday... I think I would spend the money and go with actual tile, or save my money all together and just do your normal epoxy.

 

Anyway, just my thoughts. I do have some pics if anyone is interested. Or I'll be more than happy to answer questions.

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  • Have you checked out Joe's Latest Blog?

         13 comments
      Most shop owners would agree that the independent auto repair industry has been too cheap for too long regarding its pricing and labor rates. However, can we keep raising our labor rates and prices until we achieve the profit we desire and need? Is it that simple?
      The first step in achieving your required gross and net profit is understanding your numbers and establishing the correct labor and part margins. The next step is to find your business's inefficiencies that impact high production levels.
      Here are a few things to consider. First, do you have the workflow processes in place that is conducive to high production? What about your shop layout? Do you have all the right tools and equipment? Do you have a continuous training program in place? Are technicians waiting to use a particular scanner or waiting to access information from the shop's workstation computer?
      And lastly, are all the estimates written correctly? Is the labor correct for each job? Are you allowing extra time for rust, older vehicles, labor jobs with no parts included, and the fact that many published labor times are wrong? Let's not forget that perhaps the most significant labor loss is not charging enough labor time for testing, electrical work, and other complicated repairs.  
      Once you have determined the correct labor rate and pricing, review your entire operation. Then, tighten up on all those labor leaks and inefficiencies. Improving production and paying close attention to the labor on each job will add much-needed dollars to your bottom line.
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